THE TAYLOR SYSTEM 
OF PRUNING 



By AMBROSE TAYLOR 




AMBROSE TAYLOR 



'(She 

TAYLOR SYSTE:M 

o/ PRUNING 



By 
AMBROSE TAYLOR 



Being an efficient method of pruning deciduous fruit trees 
for best results, as developed by the author after twenty-five 
years of practical work and study, and containing valuable 
information as to the care and irrigation of the orchard, the 
preparing of the ground for planting, the handling and drying of 
the fruit, etc., etc. 



PRESS OF EATON a CO. 

1917 

SAN JOSE. CAL. 






(COPYRIGHT, 1917 BY AMBROSE TAYLOR) 



/ 



<S)C!.A45e5629 

fEB 20 1917 



X =r ^ 



- 2 r^ ^ 



■jz r: .. 



2 p n 





Liiiib of a I'rciicli Prune iree, 30 inches long, with 
12 i)runcs on il. This is a sample of fruit ,t>ro\vn 
in an orchard that has been pruned hy tlie Ta\"lor 
svstem for three vears. 




^-m 



Limb of an Imperial Prune tree, 9 inches long, with 
about 16 prunes on it. This tree has been pruned 
the last two years by the Taylor system. This 
orchard was non-productive before using this sys- 
tem to renew it. 



CONTENTS 

Page 

Cluipter 1 1'^ 

Preparing" the soil for tree setting — Time to set 
trees — Selecting the trees — Laying off the ground 
and setting the trees — How to cut trees for setting. 

Chapter II 27 

How to cut the tree after it has had one gear's 
growth — The importance of forming a good crotch 
and how it is accomplished — The season for prun- 
ing. 

Chapter HI of) 

How to prune the trees the second and third 
years — Pruning in windy sections — Spraying for 
curl leaf. 

Chapter IV 43 

Pruning the tree the fourth year. 

Chapter \' 50 

The Apple and the Fig trees. 

Chapter \'I 57 

Renewing the life of the tree. 

Chai)ter VU 6S 

Cultivation and Irrigation. 

Chapter \11I 71 

The im])ortance of drying fruit |)roperly and how 
it should be done. 

Cha])ter IX 75 

Cultivation of grape vines. 

Chapter X 78 

Fruit growing in the Eastern States. 



FOREWORD 



I WISH to explain to my readers my motive in writing- this 
little book. I have spent half of my lifetime, or over 

twenty-five years, in studying the effects of pruning decid- 
uous fruit trees. The main part of my experience has been 
adapted to California soil and climate. 

Any knowledge gained from reading" books 1 did not consid- 
er as knowledge until 1 proved it, by my own experimenting. 

I had no idea of writing a book on this subject when 1 start- 
ed to study the life of a tree. My great love of Xature led me to 
become more interested in the underlying principles that gov- 
ern this particular phase or expression of .life. The tree lias the 
same iriterest to me that the human body has to the surgeon. 
The same plan or system exists in the life of a tree that exists 
in our own physical body. 

I regret that I have not kept exact records of all m\- experi- 
menting along these lines, though I feel that it would have been 
a difficult task, had I luidertaken to keep notes of the many dis- 
coveries that 1 have made, as my whole life and mind has been 
absorbed in this very interesting study. I sometimes feel that 
words are inadequate to express all that I wish to give out to 
my fellows-workers in the fruit industry, and I am not able lo 
express all that I know on this great subject in this little book. 
I only hope to awaken the minds of the fruit growers to the 
value of careful and scientific methods of pruning deciduous 
fruit trees and give to them an exact system in concise form 
which they can readily follow and prove the merit of same to 
their own satisfaction. 

Through experience T have learned that there is no sucli 
thing as chance in Xature. There is a cause for every outward 
manifestation of life we see. 

We may not be familiar with the first ]:)rinciples that g(^v- 
ern what we see. I agree with the Apostle Paul when he said 
that it was the "Unseen that was real." It is the unsc^en that is 
the cause. There is little use to deal witli ettects when we over- 
Inok the cause. 



When wc have an uiidcrstaiiclinf;- of the eausc that will ])ro- 
diice certain eiYects, it is possible to formulate a system. This 
is what I endeavored to do, and I have been snccessful in 
formulating" a system of pruning deciduous fruit trees favor- 
able to the soil and climate of Caifornia. 

After spending- so many years to establish this system of 
jM'uning, I felt that 1 did not want to monopolize what I knew 
for my own exclusive use. It was my earnest desire to give the 
general public the opportunity to receive it. I felt that I wished 
that every man who was interested could have the advantage 
of what it has taken me so many years to prove. 

At first I thought of trying to teach. This was the only 
medium I could think of through which to give out my knowl- 
edge to the world. I- soon found, hov/ever, that it w^ould over- 
tax my strength to try to teach all who were eager for informa- 
tion on this subject. I realized that, if it could be given out in 
some effective form, it v;oidd mean millions of dollars added to 
the income of those engaged in the fruit industry. 

When I affirm that I have proved the system I am giving 
out, I wdsh to emphasize it in such a way that it wall make an 
impression on the minds of my readers, so that they may have 
faith and not doubt that I have not thoroughly tested every rule, 
or the different cuts, on the several varieties of fruit trees that 
this book treats of. 1 am not writing of some one else's ex- 
periments, or of some experiments that I have not had safficient 
evidence of the result to prove that it can be satisfactorily re- 
lied upon. 

That there is a system in Nature, I know every close ob- 
server of Nature or one who lives in close touch wdth natural 
laws giAcrning the \miverse will concede to be a fact. If this is 
true, there is no reason wdiy we should not discover the system 
that governs any particular depaitment of Nature. 

I claim that I have discovered many of the natural laws that 
govern the life of fruit trees in California. I ask m}- readers 
to make use of my rules, and when they have tested them thor- 
oughly they wnll have the knowledge that I wish them to gain 
through a careful reading and sludv of this book. 



]{xperience is the only true teacher. We cannot always de- 
]-)cn(l on what we read in bocks. Practical experience can be 
depended on. We are helped by being given rules to follow 
from the other fellow's experience. I have tried to be the 
pathfinder, or pioneer, in this work, although there is an awak- 
ening of interest at the present time in this subject. 

The latter part of 1914 I discovered that the University of 
California had opened up a department dealing with Pomology. 
Since that time I have been very much interested in the growth 
of their work, and there has been a co-operative interest ex- 
istin.g between m}self and the Professors in charge, as well as 
the class of students that are under the instruction of that de- 
partment. I sincerely sympathize with this work, and I feel 
that the interest has just begun in trying to understand the ef- 
fects of scientific principles in cutting a tree. 

This system that I have decided to give out in book form, 1 
know will benefit many people. I have decided to use this me- 
dium for teaching what I can conscientiously say is a reliable 
system of pruning deciduous fruit trees, because of the many 
requests of interested friends and fruit growers, and also be- 
cause of my own consciousness of the great need in the fruit 
growing industry of scientific knowledge, gained through a life- 
time of practical experience. 

Yours sincerely, 

AMBROSE TAYLOR. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OE PRL'XIXG 13 

CHAPTER I. 

Preparing the Soil and Setting Trees 



T 



HE first thiiip- to be thought of in startino- the s^rowth of 



trees is to see that the soil is in a good productive state. 
It is a good idea to make some investigation of the ele- 
ments of the soil and its adaption to the growth of certain vari- 
eties of trees, and also study the scientific methods of su.oply- 
ing the elements that are lacking to produce the active grov/th 
of trees. 

There is so much that can be written about the many vari- 
eties of soils in the State of California, it would fill a book it- 
self, which 1 have no idea of doing. I intend to confine myself 
to a few useful hints necessary to fruit growers, in order for 
them to get the best results from selecting suitable soil for their 
purpose, also to aid them by giving them some simjole rules tr; 
follow in preparing the different soils for setting trees. 

In preparing the soil for setting trees, it is well to begin by 
sowing vetch, barley or oats after the first rains in the fall of 
ihe } ear and plowing this crop under the following year, the lat- 
ter part of ]March or the first of April, and plow it over again 
in June of the same }'ear. This will be enough cultivation un- 
til the first of the next }ear. Wdien the trees are set in January 
or February the soil should l)e thoroughlv cultivated at that 
time, ]olowed deepl}' and disked so that the soil is well pulverized 
and in a good tillable condition. 

This method of using a cover crop to enrich the soil requires 
tlie sacrifice of a year's crop, which man\' fruit growers cannot 
aft'ord. For that reason, I would not advise this treatment of 
the soil if it is in a good productive condition, but if it is 
in an impoverished condition it is not a waste of time to start 
from the foundation by building up the soil, giving it the proper 
stimulation necessary to feed and nourish strong and fruitful 
trees. 



14 



THE TAYLOR S\'ST]{M Ol- PRUXIXG 




Showing an Apricot tree in its natural form when brought from the nur- 
sery, and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. Cross 
marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUXIXG 15 

I will irieiitiou a few well known varieties of soil in the State. 
There are the heavy soils snch as the doby and clay. These soils 
need special cultivation. They should be plowed deep, not less 
than 8 or 10 inches in depth, and thoroughly disked, so that the 
ground becomes well pulverized. The light soils, such as the 
sandy, need not be plowed over 5 or 6 inches deep, and less 
cultivation in other ways. The latter grade of soil is easy to 
cultivate. It does not require much more than half of the work 
that the heavy soils need to keep them in a good condition. 

There is a section of land in this State that is called the hard- 
pan soil. I mention this because in its natural state it is vei y 
poor land for fruit trees. It can be used for berries or small 
fruit. It cannot be made profitable for fruit trees unless the 
hard surface is dynamited through to the under soil, which is 
very productive. With good drainage and plowing this soil can 
be brought out. I have known trees to thrive well in thi< s(>il 
after the dynamiting process. 

It is not necessary to use a fertilizer on the heavy soils at 
tree setting time. The lighter soils will be benefited by the use 
of manure, if care is used not to let it come in close contact with 
the trees. It should not be pennitted to be any closer than -i 
inches to the tree. It has the effect of burning the tree if it is 
too near, and at the setting time stage the tree has not strength 
to survive. Many people make this mistake and the result is 
that they lose their trees, by them dying at an early age. 

I think it is the safest not to use a fertihzer until the second 
year. I especially recommend it to be used on the light soils 
not later than the second year. 

It is not my intention of treating extensively of the soils, 
as this is not in my line. There are soil experts that specialize 
in analyzing difterent soils and discovering the elements that 
are lacking and advising just what kind of a fertilizer should be 
used to supply the elements that are needed. It is not extravagance 
to secure the best knowledge on a subject of so much import- 
ance to the fruit grower as the productive elements of the soil. 



l(j 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Showing a two-vear-olcl French Prune tree, n. its natural tonu when 
brought from the nursery, and the same tree properly eut to a stub ready 
for setting-. The cross marks indicate where the tree was budded onto 
the root. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNIXCx 17 

NURSERY STOCK. 

I feel that a fe^v remarks regarding nursery stock may in- 
spire my readers to take a deeper interest in tliis important fac- 
tor in successful fruit growing. The more interest and appre- 
ciation that the fruit grower gives to nursery stock, the more 
the nurseryman will try to become efficient in his special part 
of carrying out the purpose cf obtaining the best results in hor- 
ticulture. 

I assume that the majority of my readers have some knowl- 
edge of the life and growth of trees. In what is termed in hu- 
man life as the prenatal period, in tree life it is the presetting 
period, or the period of growth that takes place in the nursery 
previous to the setting. 

For those that have no knowledge regarding the nursery 
work or the beginning of the life of a tree, I will explain that 
the seed is planted in the nursery usually in November or De- 
cember, 

Trees grown from seed planted from October the 24th un- 
til November the 23rd will produce trees that would have more 
fruitful and reproductive qualities. This is owing to planetary 
conditions. The sun is passing through the zodiacal sign of 
Scorpio at this time of the year, which is a fruitful and repro- 
ductive sign. This comes under the heading of astrology. If 
more attention were given to the influence of planetary condi- 
tions on the earth and its products, there would be greater re- 
sults derived from the resources of the earth. 

The planting of the seed is to form the root part of the tree. 
My readers may not think that it is important to have the ele- 
ments of fruitfulness in this part of the tree, but that is a mis- 
take. The root of the tree is the source of supplying the life 
principle to the tree. 

After the seed is planted it should grow from two to three 
years before it is budded. The season for budding trees is usu- 
ally the months of August and September. The last part of 
August, after the 21st of the month, up to the 20th of Septem- 
ber, planetary conditions are favorable, because the sun is pass- 



18 



THF. TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Shcnving a Cherry tree with a one-x ear-old top budded onto a four-year- 
old root, and the same tree properly cut to a stul), ready for setting. Tlie 
cross marks indicate where the tree was Imdded onto tlie ror^t. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 19 

ing through the zodiacal sign of A'irgo at this time of the vear. 
It is a sign that favors any kind of chemistry, and it is at this 
time that the chemical process of blending the root stock and 
the scion or the tree takes place. This time of the year is favor- 
al)le for any kind of tree grafting. In fact it has been used in 
moderri times unconscious of the natural laws governing it. 
There are many rules we follow today that have been given us 
by former generations, that had more scientific knowledge than 
we have about the laws of Nature. 

The nurseries have been using almond, apricot, peach and 
myrobolin root to form the stock or the body of the tree. Af- 
ter this is two or three years of age the budding of the scion or 
tree onto this root takes place. The growth above the bud is 
cut away to give the new tree or scion a chance to draw the 
vitality from the root. 

I wish to make it impressive that the scions that are used for 
budding trees should be chosen from the strong and vigorous 
])art of the tree and not from the wild growth that is lacking in 
fruitful properties. 

After the tree has been budded onto the root, it should grow 
from one to three years, and sometimes it is let grow a much 
longer period. Personally I prefer setting trees one and two 
years of age. 

There are some roots better adapted for certain soils. The 
myrobolin root is better adapted to the heavy soil, .especiall\" for 
French and Sugar prunes. The almond root is best adapted to 
Ihe light sandy soils. 

The nurseries use both almond and apricot root for Imperial 
prune trees. The apricot is much better than the almond. I 
find it is better for the fruitfulness or productive qualities of 
the Imperial prune. 

I have made these few^ remarks in order to assist the fruit 
growers in making good selections of trees for the purpose of 
setting. 

In making a selection of trees for setting, choose trees that 
have good roots. The root is the main source of supplying the 
life-^ivin^- forces to the tree and if it is not in a o-ood healthv 



20 



THE TAM/IR SVSTKM ()F rRUNIXC 




Showing an Imperial Prune tree in its natural form when broui^ht from 
the nursery, and the same tree properl}- cut to a stul). ready for setting. 
The cross marks indicite where the tree was budded onto the root. 



THE TAYLOR SVSTE:\[ OF PRUNING 21 

condition, free from knots and insects, it is deficient. Clioose 
trees on which the buds are not too scattered. They are apt 
to be more fruitful. Of course, the strength and vitality of 
the tree is equally to be considered. Learn to detect the differ- 
ence between trees grown from strong wood growth, and trees 
that are grown from wild and unfruitful wood. Demand the 
best from the nurseryman and he will surely meet the demands. 
The selection of good trees regardless of expense is the best 
economy. It is difficult to have good results from anything 
that is not started right. This is the reason that every fruit 
grower should be interested in the nursery stock, and seek to 
co-operate with and support the nurseryman that supplies the 
best trees, because it is one of the most important factors in the 
productiveness and longevity of the tree. 

LAYING OFF THE GROUND AND SETTING 
THE TREES. 

For setting prune trees, lay olT the ground so that the trees 
will be set in squares 22 ft. apart. The old system of setting- 
prune trees was to set them 18 ft. apart, but we find that after 
the tree is over 20 years of age it needs more space for growth. 

Examine the tree and the roots, and cut oft" all parts of the 
root that have been broken. Set the tree so that the roots are 
spread apart sufficiently to give it space enough to grow ; see 
that the roots are perpendicular, giving them a chance to grow 
deep into the soil, instead of growing too much on the surface. 
Set the tree so that the bud of the tree will not he over 2 inches 
below the surface. By close observation the fruit grower will 
be able to recognize the part of the tree called the bud. It is 
the mark where the tree has been budded on to the root stock. 
Notice illustrations in this book of different varieties of trees 
selected from nursery stock, showing the markings of the bud 
on them. 

Cut all deciduous fruit trees, such as prune, peach, apricot, 
pear, nectarine and their several varieties, to a heading 2^ inch- 
es above the earth, just above a bud. Remove all the lateral 



22 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Showing a Peach tree in its natural form wlien l)rought from the nursery, 
and the same tree properly cut to a stub, ready for setting. The cross 
marks indicate where the tree was budded onto the root. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 23 

limbs, leaving it in tlie form of a stub, according to ilKistrations 
in tbis book. 

^^llen a tree is set tbe eartb sbould be tramped around it, 
eo tbe soil comes in close contact with the tree. If there is 
quite a lot of moisture in the soil at the time the tree is set, the 
moisture will pack the soil enough. This assists nature in help- 
ing the tree to become well grounded or firmly rooted in the 
earth. 

Apricot, peach, pear and nectarine trees should be set 24 
feet apart. This will give them plenty of room for spreading 
growth, and at the same time there is no waste of space. Cherry 
trees need more space. They should not be set closer than 28 
feet. \\^alnut trees should be set 85 feet apart. They recjuire 
more space than fruit trees. 

I hope my readers have a clear understanding of hovr fruit 
trees should be set with the bud two inches beneatli the surface 
of the earth, and cutting the tree about 24 inches above the 
earth, just above a bud. This is left on the tree to form its new 
growth. Remove all the lateral limbs, and ]ea^'e the tree in 
tlie form of a stub. This method applies to fruit trees of the 
deciduous type. In cutting the tree just above the bud or cut- 
ting it to a head, care should be used to cut it so that there will 
not be a stub left on it caused from too much of the old growtii 
left above the bud. It should be trimmed off even. 

Walnut trees should be set so that the bud is two inches be- 
neatli the surface of the earth, the same as the fruit trees. The 
dift'erent nature of the walnut tree requires that it should be 
cut dift'erently. Cut the walnut tree so that there is 86 to 40 
inches of growth above the surface of the earth. Cut it be- 
tween buds, and wax the cut so that it does not lose too much 
of the vitality of the tree. Remove all the lateral limbs, just the 
same as the fruit trees, leaving it in the form of a stub. 

The almond tree is set the same as the fruit trees. Cut 24 
inches above the earth and leave a few of the lateral limbs on 
the almond tree. Notice the illustration in this book of the al- 
mond tree showing the lateral liml)s that liave been left on it at 
setting time. 



24 



THE TAYLOR S\ STEM OF PRUNING 




Showing- an Almond tree in its n.'itnral form when l)rought from tht 
nursery, and the same tree properly cut for setting. The cross iViark; 
show where the tree was budded onto the root. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTExAl OF PRUXIXG 25 

Cut the almond tree between buds, the same as the walnut. 
If there are no buds between the lateral limbs, then cut just 
above a lateral limb, and cut the lateral limb back to 3 inches 
from the main limb. You will notice a picture of the almond 
tree that does away with the necessity of cutting to a lateral 
limb. The picture shows buds, and it is much better to cut to 
buds if possible. It requires less work and attention. This is 
a good point to remember in making a selection of trees in the 
nursery. If the tree has buds between the lateral limbs, it may 
seem to be a small thing to be considered, but it amounts ro 
something in labor saving later. 

The time of the year for setting trees in California is in 
January and Februar}'. The earth at that time is in readiness 
to start the growth of trees. If any other time of the year should 
be selected for setting trees, they would have a tendency to be 
retarded in their growth. 

The laws of Nature are such that if auything is retarded in 
its infancy, it has a hard struggle to overcome this stunted con- 
dition and form new habits of growth. 



2(i 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




French Prune tree, one year after Pl-^l^;^-i^,|;:;;;,'^,;;:g'H :;o;al; 
out from the main body of the tree^ ^^.l^J^^g ow Use the system of 
be hard to form a good croteh *5°'? '"7„,f„oT a ml cut it hack leaving 
cutting all these limbs oft except 'he/™ ^o^ ami ^^^_^^^_ ^^^^ ^^^^^ 

only 4 inches of the new growth. \ on will na\c „ 
vear. 



THE TAYLOR vSYSTEM OF PRUXIXG 27 



CHAPTER H. 

How to Cut the Tree After It Has Had 
One Year's Growth 

THIS chapter deals with cutting the young tree properly, af- 
ter it has heen set one year. Pruning the young tree at 
this age is very important, and should not he neglected, 
hecause this is the time to cut the tree to form a strong center 
or crotch. 

The young tree that we cut in the form of a stub, at setting 
time, v.ill have several small lateral limbs, after it has had a 
year's growth. Cut all of tliese new lateral limbs ofif except 
one, which we choose to form the main body of the tree. Choose 
the strongest and most vigorous of the lateral limbs for this 
purpose After cutting off all the lateral limbs excejn one, cut 
this one that is chosen back uiitil there is only three or four 
inches of the new growth left on the main body of the tree. The 
purpose we have had in cutting back this new lateral limb was 
to draw enough strength from the roots of the tree to form a 
strong body before we permit it to put forth its main branches. 
The tree has been given sufficient time for the strength and 
vitality of the root of the tree to become established before it 
starts the growth of its main branches. 

Cut the tree just above a bud so that there will not be a 
stub or knot on the tree where the new branches .^tart their 
growth. 

Cutting the tree by this system, if strictly adhered to, will 
form a center or foundation of the tree that will stand the bur- 
den of lieavy crops for many years without any danger of the 
crotch splitting. This system applies to the several varieties 
of deciduous fruit trees such as apricot, ap])le, peach, pear, 
prune, plum and nectarine. 

Walnut trees should have quite a different system of form- 



28 



THE TAYLOR SVSTl-AI ( )I^^ PRIWIXC 



.^ 




. 


y 
^ 


^^' 




/ 


/ 


1 « . ^ - 


/ 


/ / 


/ 




/ 


X 


,.-- 






..<-'"' 
..^^^' 





A French Praiie limb, showing where it was cut the year liefore and the 
growth it has made. 



ing the crotch fi-oni the frtiit trees. Their nattire is different. 
They are slower in growth. It reqnires more time for them to 
reach matnrity. 

If my readers will recall we left 36 inches of growth on the 
walnnt tree. It was cut to a heading of 36 inches instead of 2-1: 
inches, as for the frnit trees. I will mention again that the cuts 
made on a walnnt tree should be waxed because walnut trees 
have larger peth than the fruit trees, and if it is left exposed 
to the air, its strength is exhausted by drying out. This can be 
prevented by using a grafting wax, asphaltum or anything that 
will protect the cuts from the air. The lateral limbs that grow 
out on the walnut tree the first year shotdd not be cut off". Let 
them grow until the second year. 

Olive trees are of a difi"erent natural growth fron^. the fruit 
trees. 1'hev should be treated the same as the walnu.t trees at 



THK 'jwvi.oR s^■s'^^:M oi- prlxixc 



29 




A French Prune limb, showing the second-year cutting. This second- 
year cutting is needed very much on old limbs, to develop new fruit spurs. 



this stage of growth. Almond tixcs should not he prtmed tho 
first year. They are of the slow growth the same to some ex- 
tent as the walnut. 

I do not like to leave this suhject without trying tc make a 
strong impression on the minds oi" my readers of the value and 
importance of forming a strong crotch to the tree. This is an 
absolute necessity in securing the health, longevity and strength 
to endure storms and heavy fruitage, and is necessar\- to get 
the best out of a tree. 

It represents the same principle that permeates all life. It 
is of little value to try to improve a structure of any kind wdien 
the framework or the foundation of the structure is deficient. 
This system of cutting back the first year's growth of the fruit 
trees conserves the vitality of the tree, and gives it a ciiance to 
draw sufficient nourishment from the root and at the same time 
gives the root a chance to conserve its energy before it assumes 
the responsibility of supporting the life of new branches. 

The best season of the year to prune trees is from October 



10 r]]]\ TAYLOR SYSTE^r OF PRUNING 




French Prune liml) that shows where the fruit spurs are out to the end 
of the limh. There cannot he much new growth when the hmhs are like 
this, as they are becoming weak. The ilUistration l:)elo\v shows how to cut 
the Hmb to renew its life. 




Frencli Prune limh, sliowing- wliere it has 1)een cut to a Imd, leavin.u half 
of the new .growth on tlic tree. Tliis will produce an acti\'e urowlli and 
renew the life of the limh. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEiAI OF PRUNING 31 

the 20tli until February the 20th. The saps in the trees are not 
aetive at this time of the year. 

In tlie spring, from the first of Alarch until the first of July, 
the saps of the fruit trees are flowing upward. It is at this time 
of the year that a tree makes most of its new wood gro\vth. Af- 
ter the first of July the sap begins to flow downward. Th(3 
downward course is more gradual and less active. After the 
tliird month it begins a settled or restful period. 

Experience has taught me that it is the safest to wait until 
after the twentieth of October to begin pruning fruit trees. The 
first of the pruning season is the best for productive and fruit- 
ful results. Planetary conditions are favorable at this time of 
the year. The sun passes through the zodiacal sign of Scorpio, 
which is a fruitful sign, at this time of the year. 

I do not expect my readers to follow up the rule of pruning 
all of their trees at this time of the year, I know that the pruu- 
ing season is '^ood until after February the 20th, and it is nec- 
essary for those that have large orchards to niake use of the en- 
tire pruning season to give their trees the care that is neces- 
sary for them. Try pruning trees that have not been very fruit- 
ful in the past in the early pruning season and see if there is 
not a marked improvement in their productiveness. 

Some fruit growers make the uiistake of pruning trees later, 
after they are in blossom and when the sap has l^ecome active 
in its upward course. This theory of pruning at this time of 
the year is with the idea that they can thin the fruit at the same 
tim.e they prune the tree. I believe that it would ouly require 
a little investigation and observation to an interested uiind to 
prove the follv of this system of pruning. The effects are that 
the tree begins to decline, and, in four or five years, if this is 
kejit u]), the tree will die. Perhaps one who is not deeply in- 
terested in the life of a tree would not notice the results in one 
year's time, and would continue to practice this metliod of prun- 
ing until it would be too late for the trees to survive. This is 
the main purpose T have in writing- this book, to save the in- 
experienced fruit grower from practising such disastrous the- 
ories, which are so detrimental to. the fruit growing industry. 
jNTy aim is to give them theories pnd principles that hp.ve been 
choroughlv tested through manv vears of experience with clo-e 



;^2 THE TAYLOR SVvSTEM OF IVRTXIXC 




Limb of a Pear tree, showin.f;- it before it was eiit. 




Same liml) atlcr it has iiceri cut. Tliis is tlie i)roper way to cut a i)ear limb 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 



33 




A Freiich Prune liml). showing where to cut 1)ack, and also how to cut 
off the lateral limhs to keep life in this limb. Do not cut back to a lateral 
limb if it can be avoided. This picture represents a cut made to a limb, 
Init in tliis case it could not be avoided because the wood was dead back 
to this limb and had to be removed to renew the life forces in the remain- 
ing part of the limb. In a case of this kind, cut back the ends of the lat- 
eral limbs also, because the dead wood indicates that the whole limb is 
in an impoverished condition and in need of the end clipping to renew 
its strength. 



attention to the subject. I realize that very few people are will- 
ing or have the opportunity to focus so much attention on this 
subject. This is the reason I wish to make it possible for oth- 
ers to understand this system as I do, after many years of hard 
and dif^cult study and experimenting- with different theories. 

Having finished with the subject of pruning fruit trees and 
the natural flow of the saps in their anmial course, 1 will men- 
tion the walnut tree. It differs from the fruit tree in its mani- 
festation of life's forces. The saps are active at a diff'erent sea- 
son of the year. It must have different care. It cannot be 
])runed properly the same time of the year that fruit trees are 



;i4 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




An Apricot limb, showing how the lateral limbs grow, and where the buds 
are in between them, and an Apricot limb showing where it has been cut 
between buds instead of cutting to a lateral limb. 



prtmed. The entire nattire of the tree is different. It has a 
very short season of inactivity or restfulness of the saps of tlie 
tree. This season comes after the 15th of March, and lasts un- 
til the 20th of April. Prtining the walnut tree at this time of 
the year is safe. At any other season there would he a risk of 
it heing a detriment to the tree as well as to the fruitfulness for 
the coming season. 

The almond tree can be pruned more like the fruit trees. 
The nature of the flow of the saps in their upward and down- 
ward course are similar and the season for pruning- is about the 
same. 

The olive tree is about the same. The only difference is in 
the first year's growth of the almond and olive tree. They are 
slower in growth and the system of removing all of the lateral 
limbs except one, to form a new trimk of the tree, should not 
be used. They should be let grow in their natural state until 
the second year before pruning them. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 35 

CHAPTER HL 

Pruning the 1 rees the Second and 
Third Years 

THE second and third year's prunino- of fruit trees should 
be with the idea of forming- the main l3ranches of the 
tree. 

The second year the tree will have several new lateral limbs. 
They will branch out from the new growth that was left on the 
tree from the preceding year — the new liml) that was chosen to 
form the new body of the tree, and was cut back to 3 or 4 inch- 
es of the old wood. 

We must choose the strongest of the new lateral limbs to 
form the main branches of the tree. Choose from 3 to 5, judge 
as to their merit from their strength and vitality, and cut out 
all the rest of the lateral limbs except those that are chosen. 
The limbs that have been chosen to form the main branches of 
the tree should be cut back according to the strength and vital- 
ity of their growth. If the growth has been vigorous, amount- 
ing to 24 inches or more, cut it back to 8 inches of the main 
limb. If it has not been over 12 or 15 inches, cut it back to 4 
or 6 inches of the main limb. The principle is to cut back more 
vigorously when the new growth is weak. 

This principle of prtming applies to the deciduous fruit trees 
mentioned in the preceding chapter. The reason for cutting 
back weak limbs vigorously is to conserve the life givnig forces 
in the root of the tree, giving it more time to generate more of 
the creative force, before there is a drawing to supply the vital- 
ity of the limb. It is useless to exhaust this creative force 
on a weak growth when it can be stored up to produce a more 
active growth later. This is a system that few understand and 
T hope to make it plain to my readers. 

We also cut the tree at this age to give it the proper form 
in choosino- the main branches. Of course, thev should be 



36 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Four-year-old French Prune tree, showing the crotch 
and how it is pruned. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEAI OF PRUXIXG 



37 




The same tree as on preceding page, showing its growth 
and the foliage ihe same vear after it had leaved out. 



38 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

chosen so that they will be alternating as much as possible. 
This gives the tree a better form and makes it well balanced. 

The walnut tree at the second year period has just about ar- 
rived at the same stage of development that the fruit trees have 
readied the first year. There will be several lateral limbs 
branching cut from the main part of the tree. They should not 
be cut off like we did with the fruit trees. Instead of cutting 
them all off, and leaving the tree in the form of a stub to form 
a new crotch, as we did in the case of the fruit trees, we choose 
from 3 to 5 of the best lateral limbs to form the main branches 
of the tree, the same as we do with fruit trees the second year 
of their growth. Thin out the weak lateral iimbs, and use the 
system of cutting back the limbs that are chosen to form the 
main branches. Use judgment in the cutting back or end clip- 
ping. A weak growth should have a vigorous cutting back. 
A strong healthy growth does not need so much of the end 
clipped off. Always cut just above a bud so that the tree is 
smooth and free from knots and stubs caused from too much 
of the growth left above the bud that will start the new growth 
on the tree the following year. 

The olive tree has a tendency to gTow more of the lateral 
limbs than the walnut. This makes it necessary to do more 
thinning out. Just leave enough to form the main branches of 
the tree. 

The almond tree is very similar to the olive. It requires 
about the same pruning. 

The difference in the soil and climate affects the nature of 
a tree in its tendency to form a spreading or an upward 
growth. In very hot climates a spreading growth is desirable, 
because it protects the trunk of the tree from sunburn. The 
red clay soil in some sections of California produces a spread- 
ing growth. In sections of the State where the spreading 
growth is not needed, the pruning should be wdth tlie idea of 
producing more of the upward growth. This can be accom- 
plished by cutting to an inside bud and thinning or cutting out 
more of the outside lateral limbs, changing the growth to the in- 
side of the tree, which creates an upward growth. The op- 
posite system, or cutting to an outside i)ud and thinnin^- out tlie 
inside lateral limbs, will produce a spreading growth. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 39 

There are many points to be considered in pruning trees at 
tlie age of two and thiree years. This is a formation period. \Ve 
depend on the pruning to form the tree on practical and use- 
ful lines that will fit the conditions that the tree will have to en- 
dure during its entire lifetime. 

The red clay soil is in the section of the Sacramento Valley 
and in the foothills of San Joaquin Valley. There is a sandy 
soil of a different variety in a section near Fresno. This soil 
produces an upward growth. It has the hot climatic conditions 
to contend with. It is very necessary in tliis section to prune 
the trees to form the spreading growth. The two main points 
in pruning the tree when it has reached its second year's 
growth is, first to cut it back vigorously enough to store up or 
conserve the life giving forces of the tree, so that it is not over- 
taxed by supporting a weak growth that will not be strong enough 
in vitality to stand the burdens of fruit bearing in later years. 
Our m.ain object should be to fortify the tree with enough 
strength before it is permitted to form too much wood growtli. 

The secondary object or idea we should have in view is 
to prune the tree so that it will be formed in harmony with 
tlie requirements that are necessary for practical use in its na- 
tive climate. 

This is also the time the fruit grower should protect his 
trees by spraying them. The menace of the curl leaf on the 
peach, pear and nectarine is causing the fruit grower much loss 
and may counteract the benefit that is derived from proper 
priming. I recommend spraying these varieties of trees in 
February with a mixture of bluestone, sulphur and lime. 

THE THIRD YEAR'S GROWTH. 

The third year the new growth will start from near the ter- 
minal part of the main branches of the tree, or where we made 
cuts on the tree at its second year's pruning. From the bud 
below the place we made the cut, after the tree has been cut 
back, the new growth will be strong and vigorous, which it 
would not have been if we had not cut back the ])receding year. 
This new crrowth usuallv ranqes from 36 to 40 inches. If it 



40 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




French Prune tree, six years old, that has been properly 
pruned. 



had not been cut back to give it renewed strength, there would 
be at least half of this growth lacking. 

I hope my readers will test this system for themselves, and 
prove its value to their own satisfaction, and derive the benefit 
of understanding this principle that produces so nmch assist- 
ance in the growth of a tree. 

The necessity and importance of the cutting back of weak 
limbs I wish to make as impressive as I can, because 1 know 
how reluctant the average fruit grower is in cutting their trees 
this way. They usually cut ju.st the o]:)posite. Tlie stron.g 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 



41 




French Prune tree, seven years old, sliovvin^- the old 
method of pruning. Compare it with the six year- 
old tree, shown on preceding page, that has been 
pruned properly. 



branches ate cut more than the weaiv branches. I'his is jnst the 
principle that keeps an uneven growth. Cut the weak branches 
l3ack more than the strong- branches, and tk.e tree will soon be 
brought out equally well proportioned. 

The third year apricot trees will have a cluster ot small lat- 
eral limbs on the main branches of the tree. If the new growth 
has been strong enough there \vill be some buds above this clus- 
ter of lateral limbs. If the limb is strong- and has made a 



42 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

growih of 3 feci: or more, cut back to tlie buds above the lateral 
limbs. Note that the principle is not to cut back too vigorously 
healthy and strong branches. 

If the new growth is not more than 15 inches, cut below the 
cluster of lateral Imibs. If the new growth has been very weak, 
cut back more vigorously, so that it has a renewal of its vital 
power before it supports the cluster of lateral limbs. 

All fruit trees have new lateral limbs the third year. They 
branch out between the lateral limbs that were chosen to form 
the main branches of the tree. 

The new lateral limbs should be thinned out. Choose the 
strongest as far as possible and give them enough s])ace to 
grow and receive enough strength from the parent limb and 
with the idea of forming the tree on symmetrical and practical 
hues. 

I will mention again that we depend on the pruning at this 
time to form the foundation of the tree. 

There are some points about the prevailing winds of differ- 
ent localities that should be considered in pruning. They have 
the effect of driving the growth of the trees to one side. Cut 
the side exposed to the wind more vigorously so as to strength- 
en it so it will be able to cope with the wind. Cut back the 
ends of the main limbs, leave more of the lateral limbs, do more 
thinning of these limbs on the side that is protected from the 
wind. This method will keep the tree well balanced. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 43 
CHAPTER IV. 

Pruning the Tree the Fourth Year 

THE fourth year's pruning of fruit trees sliould be for the 
purpose of preparing the tree for bearing fruit. At this 
early age there should not be too much fruit bearing wood 
left on the tree. It overtaxes the strength of the young tree 
before it is ready to assume the responsibility of productiveness. 

The earh^ years in the life of the tree are similar to life in 
the higher kingdoms. It is the period for developing the body 
that will stand for many years. The energy or life-giving forces 
should be directed so as to form strong vigorous ^vood growth 
and not be permitted to exhaust this energy in the creative or 
reproductive centers. The life of the tree can be prolonged b}' 
the proper care in its formative period. 

We left between 6 and 8 inches of the new growth on the 
main limbs of the tree the second and third years. We do the 
same again the fourth year. Cut according to the strength and 
vitality of the new growth. If the new growth is vigorous, 
leave about 8 inches of new wood on the tree; if medium, about 
6 inches : if very weak, only leave 4 inches of the new growth 
en the tree. The fourth year the tree will have several new 
lateral limbs. About one-third of these should be thinned out. 
Leave the short fruit spurs on the tree. Thin out the limbs so 
that the remaining limbs have room for growth and also for 
the purpose of giving the tree enough ventilation and the sun 
exposure that is necessary for a strong, hardy tree. 

These cuts have no influence on the strength and vitality of 
the tree. It is the end clipping from the main branches that 
we depend on to draw forth the life-giving forces in the tree. 

The cherry tree is more sensitive than other fruit trees and 
it has a tendency to grow upward in the state of California. 
The fourth year's end clipping should be with the idea of pro- 
ducing a spreading growth. Use the system of cutting back to 
about 6 inches. Make die cut just above an outside bud. Cut 
to a leaf bud. 



44 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Cherry tree, three years old, th.al has been pruned 
properly lo produce the spreading growth. 



I wish to explain the difference in the appearance of a leaf 
l)tul and a fruit bud. The leaf bud is a long pointed bud. The 
fruit bud is a round, short bud. A little observation will soon 
teach the fruit grower the dift'erence between leaf buds and 
fruit buds. This is an important thing to know, as it has so 
much to do with making the eft'ective cuts on a tree. Cutting 
to a fruit bud often affects the new growth and coimteracts the 
end clipping. All fruit trees are influenced bv this. On account 
of the sensitive nature of the cherry tree, it is more deeply af- 
fected than any of the other variety of trees. 

The cherry tree does not have as many lateral limbs as other 
fruit trees, so it is not necessary to thin out the lateral liml)s. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUXJXG 45 

Careful end clipping is all the pruning- that is needed for the 
cherry tree. This has caused many fruit growers to form the 
idea that cherry trees should not be pruned. This is a mistake. 
It is just as necessar}- that they sliould have the end clipping 
to draw forth the vital forces from the root of the tree as any 
other tree, and they should be cut to form the spreading growth 
that is practical for easy fruit gathering and it aids the setting 
of the tree. 

Pruning the walnut tree the fourth year should be guided 
by the growth of the tree. If the growth has not been vigor- 
ous, cut off about 6 inches from the main limbs. Use the same 
system of end clipping that is used on the fruit trees. It has 
tlie same effect of renewing the life of the tree. If it has been 
very vigorous in its growth, do not cut it, because its growth 
will be sufficient for this stage of the growth of a walnut tree. 
The maturity of walnut trees is slower than fruit trees, and it 
is best not to force a too rapid growth for its nature. 

The almond tree, if it is not very weak in its growth, does 
not need the end clipping the fourth year. It will need the thin- 
ning out of the lateral limbs. If there has been some unnatural 
retarding of its growth, resort to cutting back about 6 inches 
to a cluster of buds, leaving the buds on the main limb. 

The olive tree does not require the end clipping the fourth 
year because the growth should not be hastened. Give it plenty 
of time to form its wood growth. The attention should be giv- 
en to cutting the lateral limbs. Thin them out carefully. Lut 
them close to the parent limb so that there are no knots or dead 
stubs left on the tree. These are points that seem small, but 
they are worthy of giving some attention to. 

Some soils do not produce a very active growth of the olive 
tree. Do not make the mistake of trying to crowd the growth 
by end clipping, if the soil is weak. Time is the only proper 
method for the olive tree at this age. Strengthen the soil by 
using the proper fertilizer and cultivation. 

Thinning the lateral limbs of the olive tree keeps the vital 
forces stored in the tree, thereby retaining its strength for new 
growth, and does away with the necessity of the end clipping, 
which is so essential to the fruit trees at this age. 



Mf 



t ^ 






o >. 




THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OE PRUXIXG 47 

The different varieties of prune trees should ])e cut Ixick 
about half of the new growth the fourth year. Thin out all 
cross lateral limbs. Leave all the fruit spurs.' Do not thin out 
the fruit. Use the same system on the peach, pe-ir, apricot aiul 
nectarine trees, and continue the same system of pri;ning these 
\arieties of deciduous fruit trees every year until thev are 8 or 
9 years of age. Leave about the same amount of new wood 
growth each year. This will form strong healthy trees, well 
able to survive for many years of active fruit bearing. 

The prune trees, excepting the sugar prune, do not need any 
pruning after the fourth year until they are about 7 years of 
age, except to thin out the cross limbs, cut out tlie weaker lat- 
eral limbs. It is always best to cut out the limbs that Nature 
has not endowed with the strength to survive. They will die cai 
the tree if left on it, after the expenditure of the strength of 
the tree has been given to the useless limbs. This is poor econ- 
omy to carry useless burdens. It is the lack of attention to these 
little things that exhausts the life of a tree, and there is no 
compensation for it. 

The sugar prune requires the end clipping every year. The 
hmbs need this to strengthen them sufficiently to bear the bur- 
den of their heavy fruitage. 

There are many different varieties of walnut trees. Some 
iof them diff"er so much in their nature that it is necessary to 
make some difference in pruning them after the fourth year. 

The Eranquette and the common English walnut are more 
vigorous in their growth than the Mayette. It requires more 
tiuie for the Mayette walnut to mature. It is a heavier fruit 
bearing tree, which makes it necessary to form a strong body to 
enable it to carry the heavy burdens that will be put upon it in 
its mature life. 

It is very necessary to use the end clipping every two or 
three years on the Mayette walnut trees. There is very little 
need of thinning out the lateral limbs. 

The Eranquette and common English walnut should have 
the end clipping when they are 8 years of age. This will be 
enough pruning for them until they have reached their tenth 
year. 



48 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Cherry tree, nine years old. This tree is 30 ft. high, 
ll It liad been properly cut back and tiiinned out, it 
v.onld not have been so difficult to gather the fruit. 



I wish to remind my readers again that the season for prun- 
ing walnut trees is very short and different entu'ely from the 
fruit trees. This is an important point and should not be over- 
looked, because the flow and activity of the saps of the tree has 
everything to do with the health and longevity of a tree. Cut- 
ting at the right time conserves these saps and there is no use- 
less waste of vitality. 

The season for cutting the walnut trees is March and April. 
T prefer to cut as early in the season as possible so that they 
will not begin to bud before the pruning is completed. 



f'"'''^ y I \ 1=- 



V 



'It 



Row of French FranquctLe Walnut trees. The picture shows that this 
varietx- of Wahiut tree does not develop many long lateral limbs of the 
wood growth variety. The nature of the lateral limbs of this tree is of 
the fruit spur variety. 



50 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

CHAPTER \'. 

The Apple and the Fig Trees 

IHlW'E not nientioned the apple or i'v^ trees. I have had a 
purpose in not dealing with them at the same time 1 did the 

other fruit trees. The system of pruning- them is different, 
and I wish to deal with the system of pruning- these two trees 
in the form of a synopsis of the entire system of pruning the 
tree from the hrst year until it has reached maturity. My oh- 
ject in doing this is to make this system of pruning so plain and 
impress it on the minds of my readers so that they cannot fad 
to understand it. 

This book is written for the men that deal with the products 
of ^Mother Earth, and it is my aim to give theui the knowledg:e 
that will enable them to assist nature in l^ringing out the best 
in a tree. 

I realize that the man who deals with the scnl has very lit- 
tle time for studying horticulture from books. His lessons are 
usually gained from the study of Nature, usually at the expen -e 
of experimenting without any knowledge as to what will l)e the 
result of the experiment. 

I do not wish to elaborate on the subject of horticulture, ^ly 
aim is to interest my readers in my system of pruning a tree 
so that they will understand it and have enough confidence in 
it to give it a trial and demonstrate its value for theniselves. 

The apple tree is specially adapted to soils that have plenty 
of moisture. It is only in the damp sections of the state of 
California that it is profitable to raise apples. The states of 
Oregon and Washington, where they have a nuich heavier rain- 
fall, is much more adapted to apple growing. 

Some of the apple growing sections of California draw their 
moisture from the fogs, but extensive irrigation is required, ll 
would not be wise to set apple trees where there are not abun- 
dant resources to draw moisture from, either natural or arti- 
ficial means of supplying the need. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEAI OF PRUNING 



51 




Apple tree that has a i;ni. skiukr .muwili. This 
tree should have been cut back, so it would carr\- 
its fruit without breaking down or lien ding the 
limbs of the tree, and at the same lime preventing 
sunburn. 



52 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

The setting- of tiic a])plc tree varies a lilUc h-oni llic othcr 
fruit trcos. Set tlu' l)iul '2 inehes below the surface aiul cut tlie 
tree just above a bud, a1)0ut 20 inehes al)ove the earth. Do no{ re- 
move the lateral linilis. Lay off the i; round so that the trees 
are set in 30 ft. squares. This gives plenty of space for spread- 
ing growth. L'se more irrigation with apple trees than wdth 
other fruit trees. 1 will refer to this later in a chapter dealing 
with cultivation. 

Tlie growth of apple trees the first year is not as vigorous 
as other fruit trees. They are slower in reaching th.eir maturity 
antl they should not be cut back as vigorously as other fruit 
trees. Like the walnut, they should have time to mature. 

Clip the end of the new growth back one-tliird tlie first year, 
leaving two-thirds of the new growth on the tree. Cut between 
buds, just above a leaf bud if possible. The second year should 
be a resting period for the apple tree. 

There will be several new lateral limbs on the tree the sec- 
ond }ear. Leave these on the tree. The growth of the apph' 
tree slunild not be hurried by pruning. Cutting the tree pro- 
duces too nuich wood growth before the tree is old enough to 
supply the new growth with strength to support it. The third 
year's pruning is about the same as the second with other fruit 
trees. The tree should be pruned to form the tree. The apple 
needs a spreading growth as much as possible. L'se the system 
of cutting back about 6 inches of the main limbs. Cut to out- 
side buds for spreadnig growth. Thin out the lateral limbs 
about even or alternately, one on the insitle and one on the out- 
side. Leave them about 4 or 6 inches apart. Cut out all cross 
limbs close to the parent limb so that the tree will be smooth 
and free from knots caused from carelessness in pruning. The 
fourth year should be a resting period the same as the second 
year. The fifth }-ear thin mit the lateral and cross limbs the 
same as the third year, Imt do not cut back the ends of the main 
branches of the tree. 

The sixtli year is tiie right time to do the enil clipping again.. 
Cut back b inches of the main limbs. This will strengthen them 
before they assume the responsibility of bearing fruit. Cut to 
an outside bucl. This creates the sj^reading gnnvth that is de- 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 



53 






'' \^.\^' 




^EM*^-'^;-'^ 



Apricoi iree, showing the proper pruning to be done each year. 



5^ THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

sirablc for easy gathering of the fruit and it will stand the hard- 
ships of wind and the weight of the heavy load of fruit better 
than the upward growth. The horizontal growth has more 
strength to endure the hardships that the apple tree is_ subject 
to, from its heavy and burdensome fruit. A tall tree wnth up- 
ward growth is in danger of splitting when heavily laden with a 
full crop of fruit. 

After the sixth year of the apple tree, care should be used 
to keep the lateral limbs well thinned out so that there is no 
waste of strength and at the same time it gives the tree enough 
space for ventilation, and exposure to the sun of all parts of the 
tree. This insures its health and strength to produce a high 
«rade of fruit. 

The lateral limbs should be cut out every year, unless there 
is a rest needed because of the tree not forming much density 
of growth. The end clipping every three years is enough for 
the apple tree. This will be sufficient to renew the life forces 
by drawing the saps to the terminal parts of the tree in a way 
that it is equally distributed to all parts of the tree, disseminat- 
ing its strength so that there is no danger of part of the tree 
dying. This system can be applied through the entire life of 
the apple tree. 

All that is necessary in assisting the grow^th of the apple 
tree is this scientific system of pruning it from the time it is set. 

This system of pruning the apple tree is adapted to Califor- 
nia climate. The eastern climate requires a different sysiem. 
The end clipping- cannot be relied on where the climate is cold. 
The thinning out of the lateral limbs is successful, but the short 
season for pruning makes the end clipping risky. The favorable 
season for pruning is after the ground has thawed out and be- 
fore the beginning of the activity of the saps of the tree. This 
season is not very long. Sometimes not over three days, and 
very seldom lasts over ten days. The end clipping is not advis- 
able. It has a tendency to weaken the tree in the eastern cli- 
mates. However, I am confining my advice to California cli- 
mate, as my experience has not been extensive in the eastern 
climates. 

I will mention the apple tree again in a chapter dealing- with 






^ a 







56 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

the subject of renewing the hfe of trees that have been neglect- 
ed through the lack of proper pruning. 

THE FIG TREE. 

The setting of the fig tree varies very little from other trees, 
except that it should not be cut to a heading. Leave it in its 
natural state. The young fig tree has too large or coarse a pith 
to stand cutting. 

The first few years of the life of a fig tree should not be dis- 
turbed with pruning. There is very little pruning needed un- 
til it is 10 or 12 years of age. Then thin out the lateral limbs. 
Cut them close to the junction of the parent limb. 

Never use the end clipping on fig trees. The pith of the 
tree is too coarse to stand it. Thinning out the lateral limbs 
after it has reached maturity will produce a better grade of fruit. 

Like the apple tree the fig tree needs plenty of irrigation, 
but it will thrive better in soils that have less moisture. There 
are very few of the fruit growers that do any pruning to the 
fig tree. 

I have tested the thinning out of the lateral limbs, and I 
find that this is a wonderful assistance in the growth of a fig 
tree, if practised every two or three years. 

Cut ofif all the sprouts springing up from the root of the 
tree. These should have attention every year. They draw the 
strength from the root of the tree that should be directed to the 
main part of the tree. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 57 

CHAPTER VI. 

Renewing the Life of the Tree 

THIS chapter deals with principles that are more important 
than any other, as they are the principles that will be of 
more general use and will reach the needs of every fruit 
grower. They teach the system of renewing the life of the tree 
that has net had the assistance of the right principle of pruning. 
Many orchardists are discouraged because their trees are in 
a dying condition, brought on through neglect or wrong meth- 
ods of pruning, and many have orchards in wdiich some of the 
trees are beginning to lose some of their productive qualities. 
In fact, there are very few orchards that cannot be improved 
and brought up to a higher standard of productivity, both in 
quantity and quality of fruit. 

There are many trees that have had a short life, because 
they have not had the assistance they should have had m their 
early age. However, there is a chance for the orchardist to 
renew the life of his trees at any age. I have been able to dem- 
onstrate this through my own experience with an old orchard 
at Evergreen, in Santa Clara County, California. There are 
many orchards that can be saved as this one was. It was in a 
very poor condition and almost everybody doubted that it could 
be renewed. It is a living demonstration of what can be accom- 
plished in restoring the life and productiveness of an orcliard in 
a few years wdthout resorting to grafting. There are very fevv' 
orchards that have reached that stage of decline where it is 
necessary to have the entire orchard reset. 

I will start this subject of renew^ing the life of old trers witii 
some helpful remarks regarding the resetting of trees. 

Trees can be reset the first year after old trees have been re- 
moved from the soil, although many orchardists believe that the 
soil is in too impoverished a condition to reset voung trees at 
once. Set the tree as described in a previous chapter and use 
the system of cutting off all the lateral liml)s except one after 



58 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Aw old ClK-rry tree that has liad its lite renew <-'(l 
by proper prnning — cr.tting off the ends of (he 
limbs. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 59 

the hrst gear's gr(n\th and cutting- it l^ack to 8 or 4 inches, 
which will strengthen the young tree, so that it will thrive, even 
if the soil is not up to a high standard and has hecome impov- 
erished through the growth of old trees. 

If the tree should be weak when it has reached its second 
year's growth, cut it back more vigorously than you would a 
tree that had been set in soil that had not been exhausted from 
the growth of eld trees. 

Peas, Ijarley or vetch sowed and plow^ed under the follow- 
ing year enriches the soil and is very good for young trees, es- 
pecially where trees are reset. 

Trees that are reset may need a little more Lime, but they 
scon grow out equal to other trees. If pruned carefully and the 
soil is cared for, there is no need of loss of time in resetting, as 
so many orchardists think. 

In caring for peach, pear and nectarine trees tliat have been 
neglected, I would advise spraying them for the curl leaf, with 
a mixture of lime, bluestone and sulphur. This is the best mix- 
ture to overcome the curl leaf that these variety of trees are 
subject to. This should be used in February before the leaves 
start. 

Old trees that have not had the proper prtniing in their 
youth need more careful pruning than those that ha\e had prop- 
er pruning. 

Where the tops of the trees are dying, cut back the new 
w^ood to 4 to 6 inches of all the main branches of the tree. If 
this should require cutting into wood over an inch in diameter, 
use a dressing of wax, made out of asplialtum and paraffin, pro- 
portioned 1 lb. of paraffin to 4 lbs. of asphaltum. The cutting- 
back of the main limbs will make a drawing from the roots of 
the tree to these terminal parts. 

Thin out the lateral limbs, leaving only those that are strong 
and give them enough space to receive a stipply of vitality from 
the parent limb. A surplus of non-productive lateral liuii)s on 
a vreak tree is more than it can afford to support. W'q want to 
avoid all waste of energy until the tree has regained its normal 
condition. Care should be used in cutting to bi^ls instead of 
little limbs. Cutting to little limbs or fruil spui> weakens ihe 



60 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Apple tree that has been grafted. The picture shows 
how the limbs have been cut off properly. This is a 
good practice in Colifornia, l)ut not in Eastern climate. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 61 

life-giving- forces of tlie tree. Cnltiiig to a leaf bud is the best 
cut that can be made on a tree. The long slender bud is the 
leaf bud. The round buds are the fruit buds. 

All deciduous fruit trees, after they have reache^^ 10 years 
of age, or mature growth, require the end clipping c r cutting 
back of the main limbs from 4 to 6 inches. There is some varia- 
tion as to how often this should be done. Some trees need the 
end clipping every year and some do not need it so often. I 
would advise the end clipping every year when the tree has been 
neglected, until it has been restored to normal and healthy con- 
dition. 

Soils that produce an active wood growth do away with the 
necessity of the end clipping e^'e^y year. 

The sugar prune tree requires strong and vigorous wood 
growth, because it produces so many fruit spurs. It needs a 
strong wood growth to support its heavy crop. 

The principal difference in pruning a tree that has been ne- 
glected, and one that has had- proper pruning, is cutting off all 
the dead wood on the tree and then cut it back just the same as 
an ordinary tree. Thin out the lateral limbs the same. ( )f 
course, there will be more thinning to do. It requires more 
work and attention to build up the strength of the tree after it 
has lost its health. Just the same principles of life that exist 
in the human body. If we neglect our health, we must have 
care and not overtax our strength until we have time to recup-er- 
ate. It is the same in the life of a tree. 

iCut out all the lateral limbs that are weak. Only retain 
those that are best fitted to survive. If close attention is gi\en 
to the tree that is on the road to decline, I can promise that sur- 
prisingly favorable results will be obtained. 

Every orchardist can be a physician to the tree if he will use 
the right system. The nature of tree life responds readily to 
assistance given by pruning, although there has been such 
little attention given to the systematic pruning of trees. I know 
of nothing in the scheme of life that has been so neglected. Man 
has accomplished great things with the cultivation of vegetable 
and animal life, but the life of the tree has not been sriven the at- 



G2 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Pear tree, 11 years okl. Tliis pieture shows the proper pruriin 
of pear trees, which should 1)e done every year. 



tention that is due it. Let us hope that it is coming into its owu 
higher expression, at the present age. 

I hope my readers will take an interest in what every cut on 
a tree means for its health, productiveness and longevity 

Before I leave the subject of pruning trees, I will go over 
seme of the main points again. The end clipping is necessary 
to draw tlie vitality and strength from the root of the tree to 
the terminal part of the tree. It disseminates its strength to 
all parts of the tree and produces a vigorous new wood growth 
and at ihe same time adding enough vigor to produce new fruit 
spurs. 

The life of the tree is prolonged to a very okl age, more 
than 60 years of age, perhaps much longer. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUXIXG 



68 




Imperial Prune tree on an almond root, showing the proper pruning 
of a neglected tree. 



Cutting back the main limbs should be done with care. Cut 
to buds instead of lateral limbs, a leaf bud if possible. Cuttini; 
to a limb ^vastes the saps of the tree and weakens the tree. 

Thin out the lateral limbs, remove the weakest, those that 
will not survive if left on the tree, give the remaining- limbs 
enough space for light, ventilation and growtli. 

Fruit spurs live from one to seven years. P>uit spurs live 
longer on some varieties of trees than they do on other trees. 
Apricot, peach, pear and nectarine fruit spurs usually do not 
last over two years. vSometimes three years if the tree is strong 
and healthy.. The proper end clipping and thinning out of ^he 
lateral limbs v.ill strengthen the vitality of the tree enough to 
produce new fruit s]:)urs as often as they are needed. 



64 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




Picture of a Peach tree. 11 years old . The picture shows the 
tree after it has been pruned properly. This should be done 
every year. 



Thin the fruit of the peacli, pear, apricot and nectarine be- 
fore the pits become hardened. Thin them so that the fruit is 
from 4 to 6 inches apart. 

I will mention again the season for pruning trees. From 
October the 20th until February the 20th. If the trees have not 
been fruitful, try pruning them before the 28rd of November. 
This is a fruitful season, and cutting at that time assists Na- 
ture, or it is in harmony with Nature in its productive qualities. 

If the orchardist will be loyal in practising the end clipping 
every year on old trees, he will soon have a renewed orchard. 
The first year's growth will be weak and perhaps will not yield 
a large crop. Tlie new growth on the tree may not be over 3 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 6: 




Showing a Sugar Prune tree grafted 
onto an old tree, and how it should 
be pruned. 



inches. Cut half of this back. The next year's growth will be 
stronger. Cut away about half of the new growth each year 
i<ntil it makes a strong new growth and then cut back about 4 
•or 6 inches. After following this up for three or four years 
the life of the tree will be sufficiently renewed to produce 
enough fruit spurs to raise a full crop of fruit. 

The French prune has a heavier growth of fruit spurs than 
almost any other variety of tree. The end clipping is very es- 
sential where the fruitage is heavy because of the need of 
strong and vigorous wood growth to support the frtiit. 



66 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 




French Prune tree, 8 years old, before it has been 
pruned. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 



67 




P 



K 



The same tree as on preceding page, after it has 
been properly pruned. 



68 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

CHAPTER VH. 

Cultivation and Irrigation 

Tins chapter deals with cultivation of the soil for trees 
with a few remarks that will aid the fruit grower in ob- 
taining- the best results by giving the proper attention to 
the soil, at the proper season of the year. 

There is a time or season to do all things. A Inch depends 
on studying the laws of Nature and the harmony existing in 
Nature. "J\Ian was created to have dominion over the earth," 
so far as he conforms to natural laws. In the state of California 
we depend much on irrigation for sufficient moisture to de- 
velop the , productiveness of our orchards. The ingenuity of the 
mind of man has supplied the element that Nature has lacked 
in this section of the earth, but if we did not have a natural ex- 
ample to guide us in seeing the effect of rainfall in other pro- 
ductive sections of the world, we would have to experiment to 
find out what element we needed. Since we know that it re- 
quires so much of the element of moisture to make the earth 
produce, we now use scientific methods more than in former 
periods, and in this State we have more need for scientic prin- 
ciples than in the States where they depend on Nature to sup- 
ply the moisture. 

Judgment must be used to obtain the best results from ir- 
rigation. It must be used to supply the lack in the natural sup- 
ply from rainfall. The rainfall of this State varies in different 
parts of the State. Some years the rainfall is short and some- 
times it is quite a wet season. If the rainfall has been light or 
if it is a dry section of the State, if there has not been much 
rainfall before the latter part of January, I would begin irriga- 
tion and irrigate thoroughly the last of January. This is the 
time of the year that moisture is needed to start the trees on 
their upward flow of saps and they should not be deprived of 
their need of moisture at this time. 

If there has been a heavy rainfall before the latter part of 



THE TAYLOR SYvSTEM OF PRUNING 69 

January, and the trees have heen suppHed through Nature with 
sufficient moisture, the tirst irrigation can be dispensed with. 

Tlie second irrigation should be the last of April. At this 
time of the year the earth is in a condition to absorb the mois- 
ture. It does not evaporate as it does later in the season. It is 
advisable to do work at the time that it is effective and full 
benefit can be derived from it. Many orchardists do much irri- 
gation with little beneficial results from it. 

The irrigation in the fall of the year is not necessary un- 
less it is for the purpose of raising a cover crop. 

These rules for irrigation can be applied to all deciduous 
fruit trees except apple, pear and fig trees. These trees require 
more moisture. They should be irrigated oftener, about four 
times a year. The last of January if it is a dry season. If it is 
not, the first irrigation should be the last of April, the same as 
other fruit trees. The second irrigation the last of May, and 
the third the latter part of June. 

Some orchardists think that apricots, peaches and prunes 
should have the late irrigation, but I have tested it Thoroughly 
and found that late moisture affects the fruit, so that it is lack- 
ing in the necessary sugar. 

The walnut trees start their upward saps later than the fruit 
trees, and a late irrigation is in perfect harmony with their na- 
ture, the last of April and the last of May. These t\'^^o irriga- 
tions are enough moisture for the walnut tree. 

I do not intend to deal v/ith fertilization to any great ex- 
tent, because it is not in my line. There are soil experts that 
specialize on this subject and I advise applying to them for as- 
sistance and knowledge as to what kind of fertilizer is needed to 
supply the elements that are lacking in the soil. However, I 
will give a few simple hints that will be helpful, in regard to 
cover crops and other methods of fertilization. 

Cover crops, such as vetch or burr clover, sowed in the fall 
of the year just before or shortly after the first rains and 
plowed under the following year, the latter part of March or 
the first of April, is good to make the heavy soils more loamy 
and easier for it to become pulverized. It makes it l^etter for 
cultivation, such as plowing and disking. The cover crops 



70 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

have the effect cf retaining;- the moisture in the light, sandy 
soils. 

^Manure spread in the fah of the year wih hold moisture, but 
I prefer spreading- it in the winter, December and January, be- 
cause the soil absorbs more of its strength at that time. 

One good plowing a year after the trees are set, in March 
or April, will be sufficient to keep the soil in proper condition 
for fruit trees, if the Q-round is well cultivated by disking. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 71 

CHAPTER \ni. 

Drying Fruit 

I\\'ANT to mention the importance of properly drying fruit. 
This subject is very important and does not concern the in- 
dividual fruit grower alone, but has so much bearing on the 
taste of the fruit that it influences the entire fruit market value. 
There is no chance to create a great demand for a poor grade 
of fruit, lacking in palatable and digestive qualities because of 
poor methods of drying. The last few years the eastern mar- 
kets have received fruit from California that was soured at the 
time it was dried. The fruit grower makes a mistake for him- 
self and all fruit growers by sending out fruit to the market 
that has not been carefull}- dried. The fruit growers have be- 
gun to take an interest in this subject and should tv\ to impress 
it on the minds of the public. 

The following is from a circular given out by the "Growers 
Information Bureau," 155 West Santa Clara St., San Jose, Cali- 
fornia. It includes the methods of drying fruit that T have used. 
I have always taken great interest in drying fruit, and the in- 
formation given out by the "Growers Information Bureau" 
was compiled by a Mr. Harliss, who had been in mv employ for 
many years. I was pleased to see that they are interested in 
this subject, because I realize how rmich depends on well dried 
fruit. 

"QUALITY DRIED APRICOTS. 

''First qualitv dried apricots sell the easiest, and at the best 
prices. The production of such a]:)ricots in quantity calls for a 
high degree of executive ability and painstaking attention to 
detail. In the following discussion are indicated some of the 
more important points to be considered in preparing dried ap- 
ricots. It is assumed that the orchard has been well cared for 
and that where the fruit has set too heavily it has been pvop- 
erly thinned. Before the fruit is ripe the trays and boxes should 



72 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

be washed in warm water if possible, ijubbing trays with steel 
])nishes is a poor substitute for the wet bath, because the steel 
brush merely loosens the dirt and mold, which later soils the 
fruit wherever it touches the tray. Before a pound of fruit is 
picked or cut, both trays and boxes should be cleaned. 

"The ripeness at which apricots are picked is an important 
factor. The fruit should be fully ripe, but not too ripe. Too 
ripe fruit makes too many slabs, costs more to pick and cut, and 
when dry is too dark in color and sells at a low price. 

"Too green fruit shrinks excessively in drying and forms a 
very undesirable product. Apricots for drying should be picked 
and handled as carefully as those intended for canning. Shak- 
ing the fruit to the ground is false economy. A receiving plat- 
form at the cutting shed is a great convenience. 

"For good results, sharp knives in the hands of the cutter 
should be insisted on. The fruit must be cut smoothly and 
squarely on the seam all the way round, and the halves placed 
accurately, cut side up, on the trays. The soft fruit should be 
kept separate from the properly ripened fruit, and should be 
prepared for the tray by an expert, who is paid, preferably, by 
the hour. Careful cutting will save much ripe fruit that would 
otherwise go to the slabs. 

''The quality of the finished product also depends on the 
sulphuring. The smokehouse should be tight. Tight construc- 
tion is not necessarily costly. A very efifective smoke-house can 
be made of rough boards covered on the outside with roofing 
paper. About three and a half hours exposure to the sulphur 
fumes is sufficient, if a good free-burning sulphur is used. 

"Fruit that is properly sulphured retains its bright color 
much longer than poorly sulphured fruit. The quantity of 
sulphur used and the time of exposure are, to a certain extent, 
matters of judgment. Large apricots require more sulphur than 
small, because there is a larger weight of such fruit on the tray. 
If the sulphur house is fairly tight, and there are 200 pounds of 
fruit in it, 5 pounds of sulphur should be ample. The pit cups 
in properly sulphured apricots should be half filled with syrup 
when withdrawn from tlie sulphur houses. Over-sulphuring 
should be avoided. A'pricots that are over-sulphured have an 



TPIE TAYLOR SYSTEAi OF PRUNING 73 

imdesirable appearance, auJ stick tightly to the trays. Care 
shouid be exercised in a choice of dry ground. Placing the fruit 
where it is exposed to dust from I ho road or lanes in the or- 
chard should be avoided. If one has plenty of trays, the last 
part of the curing may take place in the stack, this insuring a 
product with a uniform moisture content throughout." 

This information is very good for drying apricots. T have 
nothing to add to it, only that I hope the apricot growers will 
apply the rules given out to them. If they will, they will soon 
bring up the standard of their fruit and create a greater de- 
mand in the world markets for California dried fruit. 

The prune industry is very important in the State of Cali- 
fornia, and the proper drying process is even more important a 
factor than with apricots, because there is no market to amount 
to anything for prunes outside of the dried product. I have 
been very successful with prune drying. I never have any buck- 
skins, bloats or frogs. These are defects caused from improper 
dipping and drying. 

Many fruit gro\\ers have a certain percentage that they have 
to sell as second grade fruit, because of carelessness or lack of 
understanding of how to dip their fruit. 

DIPPING AND DRYING PRUNES. 

This method of dipping the Sugar and Imperial prune will 
insure a high grade of fruit, free from buckskins, bloats or 
frogs : Make a very weak solution of lye ; proportion, sixty gal- 
lons of water to two pounds of lye. Keep this lx)iling hot. Dip 
the prunes in this solution very quickly. Do not leave them in 
the lye longer than five seconds. This does not cook the prune 
too much. If they are left in the dip too long, the fruit is half 
cooked and becomes soggy before it dries. It may sour. It 
makes a very undesirable grade of fruit. I usually dip prunes 
as fast as they are picked. It is much better for the fruit if it 
is not let stand in boxes too long. 

When the prunes are dipped and have been placed on the 
travs to dry, leave them on the trays two days, and then roll them 
over on the other side. This should be done 1)v hand so they will 



74 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

no't mash. This rolHng is to keep them from molcHng-, and it is an 
assistance in drying the fruit faster. If the weather is cloudy 
and damp, roh them every day. If the weather is nice, it will 
not be necessary to use the rolling- process more than two times. 
For dipping French prunes a stronger lye solution is need- 
ed than for the two varieties that we have mentioned. Make a 
solution of lye, proportioned sixty gallons of water to six or 
seven pounds of lye. Keep the lye boiling hot wdiile dipping 
the fruit, the same as wdth the other varieties. Dip them quick ; 
do not leave them in the dip over five seconds, and I will assure 
you that if this is strictly adhered to the fruit will not have any 
of the seconds in it that we have mentioned. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM (3F PRUXIXG 75 

CHAPTER IX. 

Cultivation of Grape Vines 

TART the growth of orai)e vines h\ choosino- cuttings that 
have from six to eii^ht buds on them. They should be set 
so that four buds are in the ground and tv/o ])uds are 
above the surfaee oi the ground. The two buds above the earth 
start the wood and fruit growth of the vine; the ImuIs under the 
ground produce the .root of the vine. 

After the vines have made the first year's growth, cut off 
all the new canes except one which is to form the vine. C'hoos»- 
the strongest and most vigorous cane for this purpose, and, if 
it should be over two feet in length, and it is to be a trellised 
vine, cut off one foot of the end of this cane. 

The second year's growth sliould be treated on the same 
principle. Cut off all the new canes the same as you did the 
first year, again choosing the strongest to perpetuate the growth 
of the vine. After the canes are two or three years old th('\ will 
ha\e new canes branching out from them and extending back 
to the root of the vine. The end of these should be cut back, 
leaving only two buds on each lateral cane, one for the purpose 
of creating wood growth, tlie other to produce fruit growth. 

This end clipping of the grape vine assists Xature to con- 
serve its energy in such a way that there is no waste of vitality 
to support a wood or fruit growth that is not strong enough to 
be useful to the vine either in a hardy wood growth or :i pro- 
ductive fruit growth. 

Cutting off the surphis growth concentrates all the energy 
of the vine to the two Inids, which is sufficient to produce both 
wood and fruit growth, if th(^ cane was cut back to the one 
bud, it would produce a strong wood growth but the fruit woriid 
be lacking. H it should be cut back to three or more buds it 
would have the effect of scattering;- its forces so tliat neither the 
wood growth nor the fruit growth would reach a very higli 
standard. 



76 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

If there are suckers or wild growth springing up from the 
root of the vine, cut them off during the summer months. They 
are of no use to the vine and they are drawing as mucli vitahty 
from the root as the useful part of the vine. 

CUTTING GRAPE VINES TO A HEADING. 

If it is desired to cut grape vines to form a heading, after 
the first year's growth, cut oft" all the lateral canes, except the 
strongest one and then cut it back from 6 to 12 inches from 
the ground, using judgment as to the height that is desired to 
start the heading of the vine from the ground. 

The second year choose from three to five of the strongest 
canes to form the head of the vine, and cut these canes back to 
two buds. Leave only the two buds on each cane, one being 
for wood growth and the other for fruit growth. This system 
of choosing the strongest canes and cutting them back to two 
buds should be used every year during the life of the vine. This 
will perpetuate the growth of the vine and if grape growers 
will adhere strictly to this system of cutting the canes back to 
two buds, I am sure they will be well repaid. 

The proper time for pruning grape vines is during the 
months of December and January. In the Eastern states, where 
the climate is severe, this system of pruning can be followed 
with success, but the vines should be lightly covered with straw 
after the pruning. 

It is best to use cuttings from a wild grape vine that grows 
in the States of Missouri or Illinois for the purpose of setting. 
Their nature is strong enough to overcome the phylloxera, which 
destroys .so many of the other varieties some time during their 
life. The nurseries use these varieties of cuttings for the stock 
and any variety of grape vine can be grafted on to it. It is 
termed resistant vine for phylloxera. 

This will be useful knowledge to the gra])e grower who 
wants to start his own nursery stock. 

The life of grape vines that have been neglected and are dy- 
ing at the ends can be renewed by using the system of cutting 
back to tv:o buds and cutting out the suckers. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 77 

Grape vines should be well sulphured. The proper time of 
the year is jnst after they have dropped their blossoms and the 
little grapes are beginning to form. This sulphuring is to pre- 
vent mildew. 

AN EFFECTIVE WAY TO SULPHUR. 

Take a gunny saek and put about a quart of sulphur in it. 
Shake the sulphur through the sack onto the vines. This should 
be done early in the morning while the dew is still on the vines, 
as the moisture aids in retaining the sulphur. 

Sulphur the vines three times, with an interval of about live 
days between each a]:)plication. 

Sulphur also strengthens the grape vines as well as being a 
preventative for mildew. 



78 THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 

CHAPTER X. 

Fruit Growing in the Eastern States 



s 



INCE starting- to write this l^ook, I made a trip East, 
making' several sto]3s en route in the dilTerent states 
tliroughout the South, East and Middle \\^est. I wished 
to investigate the nature of the soil, the climatic conditions and 
the principles of pruning trees suitahle to bring forth the best 
in the life of a tree under the existing conditions there. 

I found thousands of acres of land in the southern states 
that could be utilized to a very profitable advantage through fruit 
growing by adopting the same system that is given in this book. 
There is enough similarity of climatic conditions to use the same 
system of pruning as we do in California. In the southeastern 
states irrigation is not necessary. The home market would sup- 
port quite a fruit growing industry, in that section^ 

The season for pruning trees in the soutliern states is not as 
long as in California. Fruit growers should try to study the 
life of a tree enough to familiarize themselves wdth the season 
when the sap of the tree is restful, not active either in its upward 
or downward course. 

The eastern and middle-west states can apply the same sys- 
tem, but they have a much shorter period of pruning than Cali- 
fornia or the South. 

It is not advisable to prune when the soil is freezing or 
when it is severely cold weather, and the trees should not be cut 
after the saps have begun their upward course in the spring of 
the year. 

It is likewise not advisable to cut trees in the fall of the year 
before the cold weather. That leaves a very short season in 
the spring of the }ear that is favorable for pruning a tree to 
bring- out the best that is in it. This time usually ranges from 
3 to 10 da vs. 



THE TAYLOR SYSTEM OF PRUNING 79 

SAX JOSE SCALE. 

I found many fruit growers of the East very much discour- 
aged with fruit growing through the affection of the trees by 
San Jose scale. They have been using lime and sulphur but it 
has not proved successful. I recommend a solution made of 
caustic soda, proportioned 6 lbs. to one hundred gallons of wa- 
ter. The best time lo a])ply this remedy is in the fall of the year 
before the weather turns cold. 



